OMG! By George, I've Got It!
Well, it has been a truly rough road for the music-inspired EGBDF sweater. For those of you who have been following this saga, I began designing this sweater months and months ago. I actually finished a prototype. I wasn't satisfied with it so I ordered more black and white yarn. I redesigned it. I almost completed it. I frogged it. I reknit it. Rinse and repeat several times. By the time I was so fed up I couldn't look at it anymore, I had ruined the yarn. Out went the yarn. I ordered consolation yarn, namely Biscotte Albus (50/50 merino/silk singles) and Cascade Yarns Friday Harbor (80/20 merino/silk), and consolation needles (my beloved Chiaogoo Red Lace interchangeables). But while going through my stash for stuff to donate to a local knitting group, I came across yarn I forgot I even had: Cloudborn Limited Edition Alpaca Silk Merino worsted in red and purple. It turns out that all of that knitting and frogging led to a solution to the construction problems. I hate knitting flat so I wanted it to be top down. But I also wanted saddle shoulders. After much experimentation, I finally solved it. And I just got finished the yoke, knit with top down contiguous saddle shoulders, and have now separated the sleeves from the body. From here on in, it's very straight forward. So I'm excited. In the photos, the picture of my in the B&W almost finished sweater is the first prototype. The second pic is the last B&W version that got scrapped. And then you have pics of the shoulder cap and the yoke after I had picked up the stitches for the front and back and had worked a few rows. 
Hello Schimel, I love your music sweater, which I called piano sweater. It is very pretty and original. I didn’t know you were struggling with saddle shoulders. This type of construction fits quite well to our bodies and each sweater I’ve designed with raglan sleeves I’ve always made saddle shoulders.
There are 2 different ways to make them :
1 Way – you make 2 identical rectangular pieces for your both shoulders and than you pick up stitches for the front, the sleeves and the back of your sweater.
2 Way – you make your raglan yoke in 3 parts, putting 4 markers to guide you along and choosing and defining the width of your saddle shoulders. : Number of sts of your saddle shoulders that maybe stay the same in the 1st part of the yoke construction.
1 st part – you increase stitches only outside of the saddle markers shoulder from the neck till the beginning of the sleeves. This is the length of your shoulder. You must increase 4 stitches on the each RS and 4 stitches on each WS, always outside of the saddle mark shoulder.
2nd part – you must now open your sleeves. You must increase now inside the saddle markers shoulder ( 1 stch on the right, 1 stitch on the left) of each saddle marker and only on the RS = 4 sts per row, only on the RS.
To guide me better and to maintain the raglan line I place now the saddle shoulder markers 2 sts inside (right and left).
Pay attention because the number of sts may now continue the same along the front and the back of your body. You are only opening the arms sleeves. So you are only increasing inside the saddle markers now. Continue knitting this way till before 3 cm of the under armhole.
3rd part- now you must design the down part of your under armhole. You must increase 1stch before each marker and 1 stch after each marker. You have 4 markers, so you may increase 8 sts on the RS and 8 sts on the WS. You may proceed this way 4 times on the RS and 4 times on WS. 16 sts X 4 times = + 64 sts.
Now, as you are a man and don’t have bust like a woman, do it only 3 times. 16 sts X 3 times = + 48 sts.
Continue for more 6 rows ( 3 RS + 3 WS ) increasing only 8 sts on the RS. Don’t increase on the WS because it will turn too wide as you don’t have bust.
I think this will be enough for the under of your armhole. You can now separate the sleeves holding their stitches on a scrap and join the front and the back parts of your sweater, and casting on 8 – 12 stitches under each armhole.
That’s all about it , this is the way I proceed for my saddle raglan construction and it fits nicely to my body, but you must adapt it to your mesures.
Take care and have nice time.
Regards,
Maria Maduro